TEXAS
HOLD ‘EM

The Little Black Book of Poker

Including Tactical Tips and
Essential Odds Calculations

Contents

Foreword

The Basic Rules of Texas Hold ’Em

Playing Texas Hold ’Em

Poker Strategies

Tips for Winning

Advice from and for Poker Players

Reading Your Opponents

Poker Jargon

Copyright

FOREWORD

“A Quarter Million, Thanks to a Full House” read the headline during a Master Classics of Poker tournament. This is not an uncommon prize amount for such events, which are played by the crème de la crème of professional players. Poker may seem like a man’s world, but nowadays more and more women rank among the top players. But this handbook was not written for professionals or semiprofessionals who play online or in poker clubs and earn a decent living from the game.

Rather, this book is intended for those with some understanding of the game who would like to learn more about its ins and outs. After all, Texas Hold ‘Em is about more than just having a good hand, wearing a poker face, donning dark sunglasses, and knowing how to bluff. Of course, you should be able to play a cool hand and not give away your cards by your facial expression or body language, but playing Texas Hold ‘Em well also means making the right tactical decisions quickly, calculating your odds swiftly, seeing through your opponents’ bluffs, and figuring out their intentions all at the same time. In other words, it’s the combination of these elements that makes this game so incredibly exciting.

But, as Michael Westerlund of Sweden, one of today’s top players, says, “Poker is 10 percent having the right hand and 90 percent psychology.” Naturally, a strong hand makes it easier to win, but playing tactically and attentively certainly raises your odds of winning as well. Texas Hold ‘Em is more than just a game of chance; while statistically speaking, the odds of losing are high when playing games of chance like baccarat, blackjack, roulette, or slot machines at casinos, with Texas Hold ‘Em, you have a good likelihood of winning cold, hard cash. You could even win substantial amounts of money if you are more skilled than your opponents.

The rules of this fast-paced, popular, and most commonly played poker game are not complicated. But you do have to play the game often in order to be able to apply what you’ve learned automatically, and therefore respond and act quickly during the game. Texas Hold ‘Em is also the poker variation with the lowest limits, making it especially fun for beginners.

Texas Hold ‘Em is played with between two and ten players, using a 52-card deck, i.e., a regular deck of playing cards without the jokers.

As with all poker games, the goal is to try to get the highest possible combination of up to five cards. The player with the highest combination, i.e., the best “hand,” wins — in theory. In practice, however, this is not always the case, as you will learn in this handbook.

That is what makes Texas Hold ‘Em so exciting. A hand consists of a combination of the seven cards dealt. Each player is dealt two cards facedown. The other five cards are called Community Cards and are dealt faceup on the table, or in poker jargon, On Board. These five cards are dealt in three phases.

But first, a note on the language of poker. Poker players all around the world use the same language, which is full of colorful terms and definitions. This jargon is an essential element of the game; therefore we use it extensively in this book. An explanation of the terms can be found in the last chapter, “Poker Jargon” (see page 151). Use it as often as you need.

RANKING THE CARDS

It is important to know the ranking of the different cards. From highest to lowest:

• Ace

• King

• Queen

• Jack

• 10 to 2

The Ace can also be used as a 1 to make a Low Straight or a Straight Flush with Ace, 2, 3, 4, and 5.

THE 10 COMBINATIONS

Poker is all about combinations. If more than one player has the same combination, the one with the highest card value is the winner. The combinations from high to low:

ROYAL FLUSH: A combination of the five highest consecutive cards of the same suit (Hearts, Spades, Diamonds, or Clubs). A Royal Flush therefore consists of an Ace, King, Queen, Jack, and 10.

STRAIGHT FLUSH: Five consecutive cards of the same suit, but with a lower rank; for example, a King, Queen, Jack, 10, and 9.

FOUR OF A KIND: Four cards of the same rank. This hand is also called Quads. The highest possible combination is four Aces.

FULL HOUSE: Three cards of the same rank plus a pair, such as three 7s and two 4s. With this hand, the rank order is essential. A Full House is also called a Boat.

FLUSH: Five random cards of the same suit. If more than one player has a Flush, the player with the highest card wins.

STRAIGHT: A combination of five consecutive cards, but of different suits.

THREE OF A KIND: Three cards of the same rank. The highest Three of a Kind contains three Aces. This combination is also called Trips.

TWO PAIRS: Two pairs of the same cards, such as two Kings and two 9s. Important: this combination has a higher value than two Queens and two Jacks, as it is only the rank of the highest card that determines the winner.

ONE PAIR: A single pair of the same rank. The highest pair would be two Aces and the lowest two 2s.

HIGH CARD: The winning card if none of the players are able to put together a winning combination. In such a case, the player with the highest card wins. If more than one player has the same high card, the higher of the second or even third card determines the winning hand.

THE VALUE OF THE HANDS

The value of the hands is determined by the rank of the card(s). If more than one player has the same hand, the hand with the highest rank wins. A Three of a Kind with three Aces is therefore higher than one with three Kings.

Even the value of the cards that are not part of a combination is important. If two players each have a pair of two Aces, the highest of the remaining three cards, called the Kicker or Side Card, determines who has the highest combination or best hand and therefore wins.

Before you start, you need to determine who deals first. You do this by having all players draw a card, after agreeing on whether the highest or the lowest card will win. After every round or hand, the player to the left of the dealer becomes the new dealer. This ensures that everyone has a chance to be dealer. The dealer is often indicated by a Dealer Button or a Buck, which is passed on after every hand is played.

A minimum and maximum betting limit is also determined before the game begins. In professional poker, the organizers determine the limit, unless they are playing a No Limit game. These types of games involve an official dealer.

Before any cards are dealt, the two players to the left of the dealer must place Blind Bets of a predetermined number of chips. In other words, this is done before they have even seen their two cards. The Blind Bets make sure that there is money in the pot during every hand. Since, after every hand, the dealer moves to a new position, the two players who must make the Blind Bets also change. Every player has to do this at some point.

There are two different kinds of Blinds: a Big Blind and a Small Blind. The first player next to the dealer places the Small Blind, which is equal to half the minimum bet. The next player places a Big Blind bet, which is the minimum bet.

With Texas Hold ‘Em, every hand played consists of four Betting Rounds:

PREFLOP: Every player is dealt two cards (called Hole Cards) facedown, which he or she does not show to the other players.

FLOP: Three cards are then placed faceup on the table.

TURN: A fourth card is then dealt faceup on the table.

RIVER: Finally, the dealer deals the fifth and final card faceup on the table.

THE PREFLOP

The Hole Cards are then dealt: the two facedown cards that only the individual players are allowed to see. Players usually view their cards by lifting one corner with one hand. During the Preflop betting round, the player to the immediate left of the “Blind” players must now choose one of the following actions:

BET OR CALL: The player bets the same as the previous player. In this case, that would be the minimum bet.

RAISE: The player increases the betting amount.

FOLD: The player withdraws from the game and slides his or her cards to the center of the table.

The next players can also reraise and rereraise. The amount of the raise, reraise, and rereraise depends on whether you are playing Limit Poker or No-Limit Poker. With the latter, only the minimum bet has been determined, which is also usually raised during every betting round. With Limit Poker, the bets are predetermined. The limits are indicated as follows: If you have a $5/$10 limit, the following would be all the bets and raises during the first two rounds: $5 for the Preflop and Flop and $10 for the Turn and River. Online and in casinos, there is usually a maximum of three raises, called a Cap, that is allowed for every betting round. All players who did not fold during the Preflop must raise their bets to the last (highest) bet in order to continue to the next round. Once this happens, the Flop can take place.

THE FLOP

The dealer now places three cards faceup on the table. This is called the Flop. The players can use the three faceup cards to combine with their two facedown cards to create a winning combination or determine the possibilities of doing so.

During these two betting rounds, the player to the immediate left of the dealer has the following options:

CHECK: The player remains in the game and waits for the other players before placing a bet.

BET: The player places a bet. With Limit Poker, the bet per round may be no larger than four times the minimum limit.

FOLD: The player does not continue playing and slides his or her cards toward the center of the table.

The next players then have the following two options:

CALL: The player bets the same amount as the previous player.

RAISE, RERAISE, AND RERERAISE:

The player increases or doubles the bet.

Once again, to continue to the next betting round, all players must have an equal amount in the pot.

THE TURN

The Turn is the third betting round and starts by turning over the fourth card on the table. All players now have six cards to work with. This gives them a better idea of the possibilities of putting together a winning hand.

Once again, the player to the left of the dealer begins. This player must now decide whether to check, bet, or fold. The other players then decide whether to call, raise, or fold.

When playing a limit game, the first bet is the same amount as the maximum bet. Once again, all players must first place the same amount into the pot before starting the next and final round, i.e., the River round.

THE RIVER

The dealer now deals the fifth card faceup. In the fourth and final betting round, the River, the players have a total of seven cards to choose from to put together their best possible hand of five cards. As in the previous two rounds, the player to the left of the dealer begins. He or she can choose to check, bet, or fold. The other players then decide whether to call, raise, or fold. Once again, the first bet is equal to the maximum bet, if playing Limit Poker. All players, except for those who have folded of course, must have placed the same amount in the pot before the Showdown.

If, however, one of the players is able to force all the other players to fold, no Showdown will take place and that player can rake in the pot without revealing his or her hand.

During the Showdown, all players who have not folded place their cards faceup on the table and declare what they have in their hand. The player with the best hand wins. If more than one player has the same winning hand, they share the pot.

Luck is always a factor in poker, but skill is the dominant factor. Of course that does not mean that, if luck is on your side, you shouldn’t take advantage of it. Calculating your chances of winning also helps. To help you out, we have put together a number of tools to determine your chances more precisely if you should have luck on your side.

The odds are expressed in percentages and are therefore no guarantee. Here we cover Low-Limit Poker; playing poker professionally or with high limits requires more reading — and more experience.

To get you started, the next pages contain a number of broad guidelines for what you can, should, and should not do during the various betting rounds.

PREFLOP

In the Preflop, the first betting round, the “Blinds” have no choice but to post their money before seeing any cards. The other players must then bet, call, raise, or fold, based only on their own cards. This Starting Hand is the basis on which you continue playing. The following explains the various Starting Hands that can be used to bet, call, raise, reraise, and rereraise — or fold — and the relevant positions. Study these starting hands carefully.

Generally speaking, you have the following options during the Preflop round:

Bet, Raise, Reraise, or Rereraise

VERSION ONE: You can do this in all positions (see the definition in “Poker Jargon,” page 151) — early, middle, or late — with

the following strong starting hands:

• AA (Ace and Ace)

• KK (King and King)

• QQ (Queen and Queen)

These three hands offer so many possibilities that they are called Made Hands. In other words, they do not need improvement to be in a good position to win.

With these pairs and the Flop, Turn, and River still to come, the following must also be considered: Two Pairs, Three of a Kind, Four of a Kind, and Full House.

As a general guideline, the chance that you will get AA is only 5 percent. Of course, the same applies to your opponents. If you have this very strong starting hand, it is important to reduce the number of opponents substantially and quickly. With 10 players, the chance that any of the other players also has an Ace is a whopping 75 percent. With six players this goes down to 50 percent, and to only 20 percent with two players.

This applies to all three of the very strong starting hands mentioned above, but also to the three starting hands described under Version Two, below. This is because, whether it concerns two Aces, Kings, Queens, Jacks, or 10s, all players have the same — low — chance of getting these cards. With a smaller number of players, the chances of getting such strong cards are even less. In other words, your chances of winning with this starting hand are improved with a small number of players!

This is definitely the case if you are the dealer (i.e., the last player and last position) with a pair of Aces. And particularly true if the actions of the other players remain limited to checking. If you then raise, the other players will immediately think that you want to win and/or “steal” the obligatory Blind Bets with a weak hand. The result is that overconfident players might even decide against reraising against such a strong hand.

VERSION TWO: The prospects are also good with the following two starting hands. Bet, raise, reraise, or rereraise in all positions with:

• JJ (Jack and Jack)

• TT (10 and 10)

• AKs (Ace and King suited, i.e., of the same suit)

These cards are lower valued than the first three starting hands and, particularly with Two Pairs, somewhat more vulnerable if there are more than five players at the table. However, the fewer the number of players, the greater the chances that this hand can win. Naturally the chances of winning increase with such high combinations as a Full House.

A starting hand with an Ace and King of the same suit is an excellent drawing hand (one with good prospects). You have plenty of possibilities to make a Top Pair (AA, KK, QQ, or JJ ) and Top Kicker or Two Pairs, Three of a Kind with Top Kicker, Four of a Kind, Full House, Flush, Straight, and Straight Flush.

VERSION THREE: The following starting hands also offer very good possibilities, although they are less strong than the previous six. Once again, you have the following options: bet, raise, reraise, or rereraise in all positions.

• AKo (Ace and King offsuited, i.e., of different suits)

• AQs (Ace and Queen suited, i.e., of the same suit)

• AQo (Ace and Queen offsuited)

• AJs (Ace and Jack suited)

• AJo (Ace and Jack offsuited)

A starting hand of Ace and Queen of the same suit offers fewer possibilities than a suited Ace and King, but is still very strong.

In a nutshell, the following is a list of the degrees of strength of the hands: AA; KK; QQ; JJ; 10,10; AKs; AKo; AQs; AQo; AJs; and AJo. These are starting hands that can be played in all positions to bet, call, raise, reraise, and rereaise.

Bet or Call

You call or bet with these good starting hands from a middle position, but only raise if no other player has raised yet:

• ATs (Ace and 10 suited)

• KQs (King and Queen suited)

• KJs (King and Jack suited)

• QJs (Queen and Jack suited)

• JTs (Jack and 10 suited)

• 9,9

• 8,8

A starting hand with 10 and 9 of the same suit provides only a 23 percent chance of a good hand, slightly more than the starting hands of Queen and Jack, and Jack and 10.

With the following starting hands, you can also bet or call, but only in a late position, and you should only raise if no one has raised before you:

• 7,7 (7 and 7)

• 6,6 (6 and 6)

• 5,5 (5 and 5)

• A+s (Ace and any lower-suited card between 2 and 6)

• A10s (Ace and 10 suited)

• A10o (Ace and 10 offsuited)

• KJs (King and Jack suited)

• KJo (King and Jack offsuited)

• QJs (Queen and Jack suited)

• QJo (Queen and Jack offsuited)

• JTo (Jack and 10 offsuited)

It is not a good idea to bet and call more than twice with these cards. This is definitely the case if another player has already raised. That player probably has a very strong hand and it would be better to fold.

Check or Fold

The following starting cards offer few opportunities to make a winning hand:

• Axs (Ace and any other, usually much lower-valued, card, suited)

• Kxs (King and any lower card, suited)

• 6,6 (6 and 6)

• Q10s (Queen and 10 suited)

• 10,9s (10 and 9 suited)

• 9,8s (9 and 8 suited)

• 8,7s (8 and 7 suited)

• 7,6s (7 and 6 suited)

To start with these cards, there must be at least five players and no raises.

It is better to fold immediately with any other starting hand combination!

FLOP

During the Flop, the second betting round, you once again need to make a decision, based on your two Hole Cards plus the three faceup cards on the table. If no player before you has bet or raised, you can check and wait to see what the others do.

Eventually, however, you will need to come to a decision, as you will also do with the third and fourth betting rounds. When calculating your chances, the number of players competing for the pot must be considered. As explained earlier, the more players there are the more likely it is you can get beat. Your position at the table is also extremely important.

It is best here to be in last position because you are the last to make a decision. You know what the others have done, and can draw conclusions and anticipate future bets based on that information. The Flop makes your options much clearer.

Fold

You don’t like your hand and you fold. If no one raises, the most you can do otherwise is check, which allows you to see the next card during the Turn for free.

Bet, Call, or Raise

The five cards provide you with numerous options. If, for example, you have a Top Pair and a Top Kicker and there are lower cards on the table, this clearly gives you an Overpair, which means better cards than the ones on the table. Right now, your hand is still a potential winning one. The upcoming Turn and River cards can provide you with several different cards that could give you a very good hand. You even have the possibility of a Three of a Kind or higher. So you bet or raise.

A second possibility is that you have two Aces and the Flop only gives lower-valued cards of different suits. If the number of players has been reduced, you have a good chance of winning with your Pocket Cards alone. So in this case, you should bet or raise.

Bet, Raise, and Reraise

Together with the three Community Cards, you have a good, strong hand, such as a Three of a Kind or higher. You bet, raise, and reraise carefully (Slow Play) in order not to scare away your opponents. Slow Playing is a deceptive move, the opposite of bluffing. It means to check or bet weakly when one holds a strong hand.

The primary reasoning behind a Slow Play is to fatten up the pot. But if you get the impression that one of the other players might have a Draw, you can play more aggressively and try to outplay that player as quickly as possible. A Draw is the hope or expectation that a card will be dealt, in this case as the Turn and River, which will make your hand a strong one. For example, you still need a Queen to make a Straight. In this example, the Queen is the Draw.

Calculating

You are the one with a Draw. You only need one or two good cards for a Straight, Flush, or higher.

You need to calculate the Pot Odds. Pot Odds is the consideration (calculation) of whether the size and/or contents of the pot is worth your bet in relation to your chance to hit that Draw. On the following page is an example with numerous possibilities:

You have an Ace of Spades and Jack of Spades as your starting hand and the Flop is a King of Spades, 10 of Spades, and 8 of Spades. For a Royal Flush, you need a Queen of Spades. There is already one in the game, which means one Out (a card that can improve your hand). You have very little chance with one Out. Your chances of a lower Straight Flush are also not very good. For that hand, you need the 9 of Spades and 7 of Spades, i.e., two Outs. You have a better chance of a Flush or Straight. For a Flush, you need any two Spades, eight of which are still in the game, i.e., eight Outs.

For a Straight, you need a Queen of any suit, four of which are in the game, i.e., four Outs, but a 9 and 7 of any suit can also help you make a Straight (although somewhat lower in value). There are still four 9s and 7s in the game, i.e., eight Outs plus the Queens to make a total of twelve Outs. Using an equation often used by poker players, you now multiply those twelve Outs by two, and add two. This gives you 26 percent, which is a 1 in 4 chance of hitting a Straight.

Your Pocket Cards and the Community Cards on the table might have even more in store for you, perhaps a Flush. It would take only two more Spades to give you a Flush. The total number of Spades in a game is 13. You have three of them, so that means you have 10 Outs. According to the calculation (10 × 2 + 2), you have a 22 percent chance. This gives you a total chance of nearly 50 percent of getting a good, and possibly winning, combination. Not to mention the fact that you also have the chance to get two Top Pairs. This is a starting hand with a lot of potential.

TURN AND RIVER

During the third and fourth betting rounds, the Turn and River cards take the game into its final phase. This is when you find out just how good a hand you can make. Of course, the same applies to your opponents.

Who has the best hand and will win the pot? Or is there a player with a lesser hand who will manage to out-bluff the other players?

What really matters is the psychological approach using a Slow Play, bluffing, or feigning disappointment after keeping a straight face the entire time. You can also make it all too obvious that you are bluffing to disguise the fact that you actually have a good draw.

So don’t make emotional decisions; instead, calculate your chances of winning. At the same time, consider the five faceup cards and betting behavior of the other players to establish who can make the best combination.

First and foremost, size up your opponents as quickly as possible. Like Matt Damon says in the film Rounders, “If you can’t spot the sucker in the first half hour at the table, then you are the sucker.”

According to statistics, in a:

A) Game with 10 players:

• two players have a High Card

• five have One Pair

• two have Two Pair

• and one player has a Three of a Kind or better

That is, if it goes to a Showdown. So if you have a good hand, try to outplay the other players as quickly as possible.

B) Shorthanded game (up to six players):

• one player has a High Card

• three have One Pair

• two have Two Pair or better

It is important to find out quickly what kind of hand your opponents might have. Your chances of winning are:

• AA against 8,7s: 77 percent

• AK against AJ: 71 percent

• AK against 9,9: 45 percent

• KK against 5,5: 82 percent

• JJ against AK: 56 percent

• JJ against QQ: 18 percent

• JJ against 9,9: 82 percent

• JJ against 8,8: 82 percent

• 9,9 against KQs: 50 percent

• 8,8 against AQs: 55 percent

You can further estimate your chances by making calculations. Here we have only included a small number of tips to help you better understand the principles and possibilities of poker. For those who wish to play poker on a higher level, various books are available. The Theory of Poker by David Sklansky is the ultimate poker reference book, written for advanced players. He also wrote the book Hold ‘Em Poker for beginning players. Players who would like to go pro can read his Hold ‘Em Poker for Advanced Players. There is plenty of material to study for those who aim to be among the best.

You can also find a lot of good tips online, such as in forums, where you can learn quite a bit, but which also urge you to participate in their online poker games.

PREFLOP

Starting Hands with Top Pairs

Top Pairs (AA, KK, QQ, and JJ ) give you an excellent hand. You can make your hand even better by reducing the playing field as quickly as possible. The more players you manage to outplay, the greater your chance to win.

With the Flop, Turn, and River still to come, you also have an 11 percent chance of a Three of a Kind and a 28 percent chance of a Full House.

Starting Hands with Other Pocket Pairs

With a starting hand with the other Pocket Pairs (i.e., your two personal cards are a pair), you have a 1 in 8 chance of winning and a 10 percent chance of getting a Three of a Kind on the Flop.

After the Flop, your chance of a Flush is 1 in 3. If, after the Flop, you have a Three of a Kind, your chance of a Full House on the Turn is 15 percent, and 29 percent on the Turn and River. But your chances of a Four of a Kind with a Three of a Kind in hand after the Flop are minimal.

Starting Hand of T9s

The starting hand of T9s (10 and 9 suited) gives you a 1 in 5 chance of winning. That is slightly more than a starting hand of QJ or JT offsuited.

Two Cards of the Same Suit

If you have two cards of the same suit as your Pocket Cards, you have little chance of a Flush on the Flop. But if you get lucky and have four cards of the same suit (a Flush Draw), the chance of finding the fifth on the Turn is 20 percent and as much as 35 percent on the River.

Starting Hand of AKs

If you have a starting hand of AKs (Ace and King suited), you have an excellent drawing hand. This starting hand offers numerous possibilities of a Top Pair and Top Kicker. You could also get Two Pairs, Three of a Kind with Top Kicker, Four of a Kind, a Full House, Flush, Straight, or Straight Flush.

AFTER THE FLOP

Two Pairs

If you have Two Pairs after the Flop, your chance of a Full House or better is 16 percent.

Three of a Kind

With a Three of a Kind after the Flop, you have a 33 percent chance of a Full House or better.

Flush

If you have four of the five cards needed for a Flush, you have a 35 percent chance of getting this hand.

Open-ended Straight Flush

You need only one card to make a Straight Flush. Here the Draw is the highest or lowest card that you need. The chance of hitting this card is around 30 percent. But you also have a 50 percent chance of a Straight.

Inside Straight Flush Draw

You are missing one card in the middle to complete your Straight Flush. You have a 25 percent chance of getting this card on the Turn.

Gutshot Straight Draw

You are missing a card in the middle for a Straight. Your chance of hitting this card on the Turn is 9 percent, and 17 percent on the Turn and River.

Straight

You are missing cards for a Straight. You need to figure out which cards you need to improve your hand. Make sure to consider the Outs. Here is an example calculation:

You have a King of Spades and a Jack of Diamonds, and the Flop is a Queen of Clubs, 10 of Spades, and 8 of Clubs. You still need an Ace or 9 for a Straight.

There are four of each in the game, giving you eight Outs. You now multiply these Outs by two and add two. This gives you 18 percent, which is almost a 1 in 5 chance.

This calculation method can also be used to calculate the Pot Odds. You do this if you have a Draw and want to figure out whether the size of the pot is worth the size of your bet. Suppose the pot contains $100 and you need to bet $10: as your bet would be equal to 10 percent of the pot, it is worth the risk. Your winnings would then be 10 times your bet, giving you an 18 percent chance of winning.

You Can Always Improve Your Game

The more you play, the more you learn, especially if you play against players more skilled or experienced than you. With low-limit games, try out your new skills and read a variety of books about poker to increase your knowledge.

Play Tight

Playing Tight means playing fewer starting hands and not taking the chance that the Flop will improve a weak hand, turning it into a Favorite Hand (the hand that has the best chance of winning).

Don’t Lose Your Cool

Everyone has a bad hand at some point or loses to a Bad Beat (a loss in which you had the better odds than the winning player earlier in the hand). Don’t let this put you On Tilt (playing emotionally rather than rationally) or you are guaranteed to play poorly. It is far better to distance yourself somewhat and not participate in the next hand.

Don’t Be On Tilt

Being On Tilt is a common phenomenon with poker. If there is a lot of money at stake, the consequences of this playing style can be far worse. Not only is it a good idea to take a break, it is often best to stop playing altogether. This type of reckless playing often can be seen with players who have just won one or two major hands. It can be due to overconfidence or a loss of concentration. Fortunately, it usually doesn’t last very long.

Don’t Play Too Many Hands

Many poker players make the mistake of playing too many hands. Poker is a game for cool-headed tacticians. Wait for your turn patiently and, if necessary, get rid of a questionable hand before the Flop.

The point is not to win that one hand, but to have more chips or money at the end of the game than at the beginning.

Don’t Just Call or Check

Remember that a raise is a potent weapon. With a promising hand, it is definitely better to bet and raise than call or check.

Use a Variety of Tactics

Play quietly alternately with communicatively, stoically with assertively, relaxed with tightly wound, slow with fast, tightly with aggressively, occasionally using a bluff or semi-bluff (your hand is currently weak but has the potential to become very strong, e.g., a Flush Draw), and, if necessary, using the Check-Raise tactic. This means checking first to make the other players believe you have an inferior hand, thereby tempting them to go along with it or even to raise, after which you raise. Keep in mind that this play is not allowed in some casinos.

There are various tactics that can and should be used. Try making an irresponsible bet some time as well, just to mislead your opponents.

Plan Your Moves

You should be able to explain why you make the moves you make.

Play Deliberately

Calculate your chances, but consider them in light of what your opponents are doing. This means that you need to keep a close eye on them and try to figure out what hand they might be holding based on their actions. This will help you better calculate your chances and determine which tactic could help you win. If you are a good judge of human nature, this will definitely allow you to read your opponents more effectively.

Think carefully about the best possible hand you can make with your two cards plus the Flop. If these are suited cards, your chances with a Top Pair have decreased considerably. It is possible that one of the other players already has a Flush or, more likely, a Flush Draw.

Try to outplay the other players in the first round as quickly as possible. This way, you deprive them of the chance to strengthen their hand on the Flop, Turn, or River. After all, weak hands can sometimes turn into Drawing Hands (i.e., become valuable with further cards).

Bluff

Bluffing is one of the most tried and tested tactics. Don’t overuse it. Try to avoid getting the reputation of being a bluffer or your calls and raises will not be taken seriously. There is little point to bluffing with Limit Poker. After all, how many players are willing to be chased away for a couple of bucks? It only really makes sense if you have an extremely good hand and are competing with only one or two other players for the pot. The semi-bluff tactic should also only be used in moderation.

Check

Don’t check if you have a reasonably good hand, even if you are unsure whether it could become a winning hand. You are only giving the other players the opportunity of a free card that could improve their hand to beat you.

However, checking only occasionally when you have a strong hand makes the game less predictable and confuses your opponents. Not to mention the fact that you give your opponents more confidence in their own hands and prompt them to bet or raise.

Don’t Be a Loose-Passive Player

Loose-passive players are easy opponents. They are often beginners who are still anxious and hardly dare to raise, but have an equally hard time folding. Don’t become one of them!

Practice for Free

Practice often since — after all — practice makes perfect. There are various poker sites where you can practice for free.

Be Disciplined!

It takes not only skill but also discipline to play poker well, regardless of which variation you play. Of course, a good hand and a little bit of luck also helps.

Learn to Read Your Opponents

As mentioned earlier, psychological insight is one of the cornerstones of Texas Hold ‘Em. You need to be a good judge of human nature. It is not just the cards you hold in your hand that determine your chances of winning, but also how both you and your opponents play the game.

Texas Hold ‘Em is first and foremost psychological and tactical warfare between players. That is why it is important that you learn to profile your opponents quickly so you can take advantage of their weaknesses. A helpful tool is to characterize them as one of the following types of players:

ADVERTISER: A player who deliberately lays it on thick.

AGGRESSIVE PLAYER: A player who raises and bets more than he checks or calls.

BLUFFER: A player who bluffs a lot.

CALLER: A player who often calls.

CHASER: An opportunist who continues with a hand that is probably not the best in an attempt to improve his or her hand.

CHECK-RAISER: A player who checks first and then raises after another player has bet.

FISH: A poor (unskilled) poker player.

LOOSE-PASSIVE PLAYER: A beginning player who does not raise or fold very often.

SHARK: A player who only plays to win a lot of money and primarily goes after the Fish.

TIGHT PLAYER: A player who plays conservatively.

Pay close attention to the body language and facial expressions of players when they look at their Hole Cards. Watch how they react to the cards during the Flop, Turn, and River. But also make sure to watch how they act when they check, bet, call, raise, reraise, or fold.

For example, do they put on or take off their glasses? Do they have any nervous tics — blinking their eyes, pulling on the corner of their mouth, playing with their hair, nose, or ears or shifting in their seats often — that could reveal uncertainty? Which position or expression did they use when bluffing and which when they had a strong hand? How did the player with a lot of chips and the one with only a few chips play?

Take note of the character traits of your opponents by name.

The next time you play against them in poker, you’ll already know their habits and style.

NAME:

TYPE OF PLAYER:

IS INDECISIVE WHEN:

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IS CONFIDENT WHEN:

OTHER TYPICAL TRAITS:

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Poker players have their own special international language and lingo. It is therefore a good idea to learn the most important terms. You will find the same lingo used in poker textbooks, on Web Sites, and in other poker literature.

A

A: The abbreviation for Ace.

ACE: The card with the highest value in the game. The Ace can also represent a 1 when, for example, making a Straight Flush or a low Straight.

ACTION: The move that a player makes during a betting round: check, bet, call, raise, or fold.

ADD-ON: The possibility to buy chips during a live game.

ADVERTISING: Bluffing with an inferior hand, pretending to be disappointed, or faking a good hand. This tactic is used to mislead opponents.

AGGRESSIVE: This playing style involves betting and raising more often than checking or calling.

ALL-IN: When you bet all of your chips.

ANNA KOURNIKOVA: Slang for a starting hand (two facedown cards) of Ace and King. This is because it looks so promising but seldom wins. Also see Big Slick.

AMERICAN AIRLINES: Two Aces.

B

BACKDOOR: When the fourth card (on the Turn) and the fifth card (on the River) give you a winning hand. This is also called a Runner-runner.

BAD BEAT: When a strong hand is beaten by an inferior hand.

BANKROLL: The amount of money a player has to wager. Also see Roll.

BAGGER: An inferior hand.

BET: The money wagered by a player in a betting round. The other players must then call, raise, or fold.

BET THE POT: A bet that is equally as large as the total pot.

BIG BLIND: The second and largest of the two forced bets made by players. The first forced bet is the Small Blind and is equal to half of the agreed minimum bet. The Big Blind is equal to the entire minimum bet. The Blind Bets are always made by the first two players to the left of the dealer. These bets must be made before the cards are dealt, i.e., before the players have seen their cards. The players who must post the Blinds move one position to the left for every hand so that every player has a turn to post a Blind. The Blind Bets make sure that there is money or chips in the pot.

BIG SLICK: A starting hand of Ace and King that is not necessarily a winning hand. Also see Anna Kournikova.

BLANK: A Community Card of no apparent value.

BLINDS: The initial bets that two players must place in every hand before any cards are dealt. During every betting round, the blind position moves one position to the left. This way, all of the players get a turn to post this mandatory bet. The Blinds also make sure there is money in the pot and allow the players to refrain from playing if they have a weak hand. In other words, they can simply wait until the next game and a stronger hand since it does not cost anything to fold or quit.

BLINDED OFF: When you experience a shortage of good hands or are unable to play them well. As a result, your stack is gradually reduced due to the ever-increasing Blinds with which you are confronted.

BLUFF: A somewhat exaggerated definition would be “to bet on nothing.” But you can also bluff when you have a reasonably good hand. You do this when you want to make the other players believe you might have a better hand than you really do. You can use a bluff to chase away your opponents (bet, raise, or reraise). But there is not much point to bluffing when playing Low Limit poker. Not many players will be scared away when there are only a few dollars at stake.

BLUFFER: A player who bluffs often. Remember to bluff selectively and in small doses. This way, you will not get the reputation of being a bluffer (and not be taken seriously).

BOARD: The faceup cards, also called Community Cards. These are the cards that are placed faceup on the table on the Flop, Turn, and River.

BOAT: Another name for Full House, which is three cards of the same rank and a pair.

BUTTON: The Button indicates the dealer. During professional games and in casinos, there is an official house dealer, but in card rooms and private homes one of the players usually deals. The advantage to being the dealer is that he or she is the last to act. That is why, after every hand, the dealer button is passed on to the player to the left, who then deals the cards. This makes sure that every player has a turn and that the two players who make the Blind Bets also switch. These players can also be indicated with a button, one for the Small Blind and one for the Big Blind.

C

CALL: Putting into the pot an amount of money equal to the bet or raise of the other player(s).

CALLING STATION: A player who never bets or raises, but almost always calls.

CARRÉ: A series of four cards of the same rank, such as four Kings. This is also called Quads or Four of a Kind.

CHASE: Trying to chase away an opponent with a better hand as early as the Flop by bluffing, in hopes of getting better cards on the Turn and River.

CHECK: Knocking on the table to indicate that you are still in the game but have not yet bet or raised. You can do this as long as the other players — except the Blinds — have not yet placed a bet.

CHECK-RAISE: Checking first and then, once another player has made a bet, responding with a raise. This is also called Sandbagging. Some card rooms and casinos have house rules against Checkraising.

CHIP LEADER: The player with the most chips at that moment.

CHIPS: These are also known as Casino Tokens and are used in lieu of currency in casinos. Each of the five colors represents a different value. In private play, the value depends on what is agreed upon before the game begins.

CLUBS: One of the four suits.

COLD CARDS: When you go through a large number of hands without getting a playable one.

COMMUNITY CARDS: The five cards placed faceup on the table that all players can use to combine with their own two personal cards. Also see Board.

CONNECTOR: Two or more cards of consecutive rank.

COUNTERFEIT: When cards are dealt that make your hand less valuable, e.g., you have 7,7 and the Flop is J,J, and 8 and then another 8 falls on the Turn.

COWBOY: Another name for King.

D

DEALER: The person who deals the cards. In casinos and during official tournaments, there is often a house dealer, but in home games and card rooms the dealer is one of the players. The dealer is indicated by a dealer button, which is moved one position to the left before each game round. This ensures that every player has the chance to act as dealer.

DECK: The cards that you have not yet seen. They are not the Pocket Cards in your hand or the ones faceup on the table.

DIAMONDS: One of the four suits.

DOWN CARDS: The two cards dealt to every player facedown and at the start of the first betting round. The Down Cards are also known as Pocket Cards or Hole Cards.

DRAW: A hand that needs further cards to become valuable. Also called a Drawing Hand. You are hoping that the cards dealt on the Turn and River will be able to help you make a strong hand. For example, if you have a Queen and a 10 and the Flop is Jack, 9, and 6, then a King or an 8 will allow you to make a Straight. There are four of each in the game, giving you eight Outs. So your chance of getting a Straight is almost 20 percent. You must therefore decide whether the size of the pot is worth your bet.

DRAWING DEAD: The Draw that you need can, together with the other cards on board, give another player a better hand. In other words, the card that gives you a Straight might give another player a Flush.

F

FAVORITE: The hand that has the best chance of winning.

FIFTH STREET: Another name for the River, the final betting round in which the fifth card is dealt faceup on the table.

FISH: A poor (unskilled) poker player.

FLOP: The Flop is the second betting round, in which three Community Cards are dealt faceup on the table at the same time.

FLUSH: A combination consisting of five random cards of the same suit. If more than one player has a Flush, the highest card determines the winner.

FOUR OF A KIND: A combination of four cards of equal rank. The highest possible combination is four Aces. This hand is also called Quads.

FOURTH STREET: Another name for the Turn, the third betting round, in which a fourth card is dealt faceup on the table.

FULL HOUSE: A combination of three cards of one rank and a pair of another, such as three 7s and two 4s. The ranking of the cards is also essential here. A Full House is also called a Boat.

G

GOOD FLOP: A Flop in which three strong Community Cards are dealt, such as Three of a Kind. Almost every player can improve their hand with a Good Flop, although it is not necessarily good for those players waiting for their Outs.

GUTSHOT STRAIGHT DRAW: When you are missing one card in the middle to complete a Straight.

H

HAND: The cards that together are used to play the game, the goal of which is to have the best possible hand.

HEADS UP: A pot that is being contested by two (remaining) players.

HEARTS: One of the four suits.

HIGH CARD: The player with the highest card wins if none of the players have a hand with a winning combination. If more than one player has the same High Card, the next highest-ranking card or cards is/ are used to determine a winner.

HIT: You are “Hit” when you get a card that helps your hand.

HOLE CARDS: The first betting round, in which every player is dealt two cards facedown. These cards may only be seen by the individual players and may not be removed from the table or placed elsewhere. The Hole Cards are also known as Down Cards or Pocket Cards.

I

IMPLIED ODDS: Your bet at the start, which takes into consideration estimated future betting. You include in your calculations how much you can raise your bets in future betting rounds if you get a good card or Draw.

IN THE ZONE: The period that, unfortunately, is often too short and during which you are unbeatable. You are winning hand after hand with all kinds of different cards. This is also called a Rush, On a Roll, or a Winning Streak.

J

J: The abbreviation for Jack.

JACK: One of the picture cards.

JAMMING: Betting and raising continuously to make sure the pot is a good size. Also called Ramming.

K

K: The abbreviation for King.

KICKER: The highest card that is not part of a combination but can be used to break ties.

KING: One of the picture cards.

L

LIMIT POKER: In Limit Poker, the maximum betting amount is determined beforehand. For example, $1 and $2 Limit Poker would mean that the following bets can be made:

• Before the Flop: $1

• On the Flop: $1

• On the Turn: $2

• On the River: $2

This usually includes an agreement that no more than three or four raises are permitted during a betting round.

LIMIT POKER (CONTINUED): Limit Poker is more about the calculation skills and probability calculations than the psychological insight of the players, as opposed to No-Limit Poker. Texas Hold ‘Em is often played with low limits, which is one of the reasons why this game is so popular. Also see No-Limit Poker and PotLimit Poker.

LIMP: Calling the Big Blind before the Flop but only after seeing your two facedown cards.

LONGHAND: Playing poker with seven or more persons.

LOOSE: Playing a large number of hands.

M

MANIAC: Player with a very aggressive playing style. He or she raises hands for which others would fold.

MONSTER: A hand that is virtually unbeatable.

MUCK: Discarding your hand without revealing the cards.

N

NO-LIMIT CASH GAME: Playing poker without any limits except a minimum bet. Considering the tension and high stakes, psychology plays a greater and often more decisive role here than in Limit Poker.

NO-LIMIT POKER: With this type of poker, only the minimum bet has been determined, which is also usually raised in every betting round.

NUT FLUSH: The highest Flush combination between two players with a Flush. Suppose one player has five Hearts, including a King, whereas the other has five Hearts, but his highest card is a Queen. The player with the King wins.

NUTS: The strongest possible hand in a given situation, or the highest of two equal combinations, such as a Nut Flush.

O

O: The abbreviation for Offsuited.

ODDS: The mathematical chances of getting a particular card or hand.

OFFSUIT: Cards that are not of the same suit, such as Hearts and Clubs.

ON BOARD: The shared cards, also called Community Cards, that are dealt faceup on the table.

ONLINE POKER: Poker played on the Internet.

OPEN-ENDED STRAIGHT (FLUSH):

The card that you still need on either end to make a Straight (Flush).

OUT(S): The card or cards that you still need to improve your hand. Poker players calculate their chances of getting an Out in terms of percentages. For example: You have an Ace of Spades, a King of Diamonds and the Flop is a Queen of Clubs, 10 of Spades, and 8 of Clubs. You still need a Jack for a Straight. There are four of these in the game, giving you four Outs. Poker players use the following equation: Multiply your Outs (four in this case) by two and then add two. This gives you a 10 percent chance.

OVERCARDS: When the two cards you have in your hand are higher than the Community Cards, such as an Ace and Queen in your hand and a King, Jack, and 9 on board.

OVERPAIR: When the pair you have in your hand is higher than the shared cards on the table.

P

PLAY FAST: Betting aggressively with an incomplete hand in order to win a large amount once your card hits.

POCKET CARDS: The two facedown cards that you receive during the first betting round, also called Hole Cards or Down Cards.

POCKET PAIR: When your two facedown cards are a pair.

POKER FACE: A blank expression that does not reveal your thoughts. You do not show whether you are disappointed or excited about your hand, either with your facial expression or your body language, which can also reveal a lot.

POSITION: The order in which players are seated around the table. The later the position, the better. The dealer has the best position since he or she is last to act and can best estimate the other players’ hands. The player immediately after the Blind Bets is in the worst position and under the gun. He is the first player who must act. His call, bet, raise, or fold gives the other players information to base their bets on.

POT-LIMIT POKER: A popular online poker game. It is less risky than No-Limit Poker since the minimum bet is equal to that of Limit Poker and the maximum bet is as large as the contents of the pot. It does require a slightly different strategy, however. For example, you cannot force anyone to go All-In unless the pot is already large. With Pot-Limit Poker, it is almost impossible to outplay someone with aggressive playing.

POT ODDS: Calculation used to determine whether or not to call a bet. In other words, is the amount you need to bet worth the risk?

You calculate how great a chance you have that the card or cards that you need will come up. See the example given under Outs. In that example, the percentage calculated was 10 percent. You weigh this against the size of the bet and the size of the pot. If the pot holds $100 and you need to bet $10, your bet would be equal to 10 percent of the pot, which is worth the risk. Odds of 20 percent give you 10 times the value of the bet. That is, a 1 in 5 chance.

For example, suppose you have a King of Hearts and a Queen of Hearts and the Flop is an Ace of Hearts, a 7 of Spades, and a 3 of Hearts. This gives you a Flush Draw (only one card away from a Flush). In this case, this is also the best possible Flush (Nut Flush). To calculate the Pot Odds, you first count the cards that give you a Flush. Of the 13 Hearts in the game, you have two and there are two on the table, which leaves nine still in the game. You now multiply these nine Outs by two and add two, resulting in a 20 percent chance.

POT ODDS (CONTINUED): After you have calculated your chance of a Draw, compare this chance to how much money you need to bet to seize that chance. Is this in proportion to the contents of the entire pot? Suppose the pot holds $100 and you need to call $10 to see a new card. You bet $10 to be able to win $110 (100 plus your 10). In poker, “investing” a ratio of 10 percent with odds of 20 percent is considered justified.

The situation is totally different, however, if someone doubles or triples the bet on the Turn. In this case, with only one card to go (River), the required bet would be too high relative to your odds.

PREFLOP: The first betting round, which is followed by the Flop. The Blind Betters make bets before seeing any cards and the other players make bets with only their Pocket Cards as reference.

Q

Q: The abbreviation for Queen.

QUADS: A combination of four cards of equal rank. This combination is also called Four of a Kind. The highest possible combination is four Aces.

QUEEN: One of the picture cards.

R

RAISE: Increasing bet(s) made earlier.

RAMMING: See Jamming.

RANK: The number or letter on the card.

RIVER: The final and decisive betting round. The River card is the fifth and final card dealt faceup on the table. At this point, the players know exactly what cards they have to work with.

ROLL: The amount of money you have to wager with during the game. This is also called a Bankroll. For professionals, this is their working capital.

ROUNDER: A professional traveling poker player. The film Rounders from 1998, in which Matt Damon starred, has certainly contributed to the current popularity of poker.

ROYAL FLUSH: The highest possible Straight Flush. This Flush consists of the five highest consecutive cards of a single suit: the Ace, King, Queen, Jack, and 10.

RUNNER-RUNNER: When the Turn and River give you a winning hand. Also called a Backdoor.

RUNNING PAIR: When the last two cards on the table form a pair.

RUSH: See In the Zone.

S

SECOND BULLET: A substantial bet on the Flop after a bet on the Preflop.

SET: See Three of a Kind.

SHARK: A player who only plays to win a lot of money and primarily goes after Fish.

SHORTHAND: Playing poker with two to six players.

SHOWDOWN: After the River, all the players who have not folded place their cards faceup on the table and compare them. The player with the best hand wins. If more than one player has the same winning hand, they share the pot.

SLOW PLAY: Concealing a strong hand by betting weakly or passively.

SPADES: One of the four suits.

SPLIT POT: When the pot is divided among two or more players.

STACK: The amount of chips you have in play at the moment.

STARTING HAND: The two cards dealt facedown to every player. These cards cannot be seen by the other players, only the player to whom they have been dealt.

STRAIGHT: A combination of five consecutive cards of sequential rank but different suits.

STRAIGHT FLUSH: A series of five consecutive cards of the same suit, but with a lower ranking. This combination consists of, for example, a King, Queen, Jack, 10, and 9.

SUCKER STRAIGHT: Drawing to the wrong side of a Straight. For example, you have a Jack, 10, 9, and 8 and get a 7 instead of a Queen.

SUIT: The different categories of cards: Hearts, Spades, Diamonds, and Clubs.

SUITED: A card of the same suit.

SUITED CONNECTOR: Cards of the same suit and of consecutive rank, such as a Jack and 10 of Clubs.

T

T: The abbreviation for the 10 card.

TELL: Certain behavior on the part of a player that allows you to guess his or her hand. However, you can also betray your own hand through Tells.

TEXAS DOLLY: The nickname for a poor starting hand, such as a 10 and a 2. But poker legend Doyle Brunson twice won the World Series of Poker with this very hand.

THREE OF A KIND: A series of three cards of the same rank. This combination is also called Trips or Set.

TIGHT: A conservative playing style of players who only play with good hands.

TIGHT-AGGRESSIVE: When you play few hands but in a very aggressive manner.

TILT: Playing wildly or recklessly as a result of a poor playing strategy or hands. The best thing to do if you wind up On Tilt is to take a break or stop playing.

TOKENS: The small discs used in lieu of currency to make bets. Also see Chips.

TOP PAIR: AA, KK, and QQ are all Top Pairs.

TOP KICKER: A card that i0s not part of the combination but is so high that it would give you a winning hand. For example, if two players have One or Two Pair(s) of equal ranking, the Kicker determines who has the winning hand. The player with an Ace as the highest supporting card beats the player with a King as the Kicker.

TRICKY PLAY: Playing your hand in an unorthodox manner to confuse the other players. This is also called Deceptive Play.

TRIPS: See Three of a Kind.

TURN: The Turn is the third betting round, i.e. the fourth card that is dealt faceup on the table.

TWO-GAP: A connector that skips two cards, such as a Jack and 8 or King and 10.

TWO PAIRS: Two Pairs of cards of the same rank.

U

UNDERPAIR: When your Pocket Pair is lower than the Community Cards. For example, you have an 8 and 8 and the Community Cards are a King, Jack, and 9. The other players can make a higher pair with the cards on board than you can.

UNDER THE GUN: The player directly next to the Big Blind who is the first to act. This is the worst position to be in since you do not yet know what the other players are going to do. The rest of the players base their actions on yours.

First published in the United States in 2010 by Chronicle Books LLC. First published in Holland in 2007 by Image Books Factory BV under the title of Texas Hold ‘Em: Pokerbible.

Copyright © 2007 ImageBooks Factory BV.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced in any form without written permission from the publisher.

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data available.

ISBN: 978-1-4521-1913-7

Cover and Design by Ross Milne Concept by Studio Image Books

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